New Orleans Part Two

Continuing the trip, Saturday we started off with breakfast at a diner right across from our hotel, Daisy Dukes. The food was typical diner breakfast, but what really made it great was the bottomless bloodymarys. The first one was good, but the next two I didn’t enjoy as much. You can only enjoy so much bloodymary. They were thick with horseradish (I guess) and I don’t like chewing my drinks. I had to skip this part, but their presentation is very fancy, it comes with a crayfish hanging off the side.

Bottomless bloodymarys

After breakfast we went to ask the hotel concierge about some things to do. My aunt wanted to see St Roch’s Cemetery because it has a room of relics. The concierge made it clear this was not in an area we should be going. So we went with our next choice and she called the shuttle for Mardi Gras World.

Mardi Gras World was one of my favorite things we did. They pick you up and bring you back in a shuttle bus because it is out by the Superdome. This company makes 75% of the floats for Mardi Gras and they run tours showing you the history, how it is all made, the culture of the different krews, even give out some king cake. A lot of their stuff they reshape and reuse following years and some things have to be made from scratch. They have about 10 full-time artists that do it all. We saw them Papier-mâché-ing and painting during the tour.

Us dressed up at Mardi Gras World

Our tour guide at Mardi Gras World

Mardi Gras World

On our way back we asked the shuttle guy about dropping us at St Roch’s Cemetery. Once again we were told not to go there. Not a “you sure you want to go there? It’s not very safe.” a straight forward “you can’t go there, unless you want to become a permanent resident.” We were dropped off instead at the River Walk where there is a nice little park and mall. We had a drink in the park and then went in the mall were there is a Food and Beverage museum. We stopped in a tourist center were we met a women named Cher. She set us up with a tour the next night and lots of coupons, and a cab driver she said she trusts to bring her daughter around that we could ask to bring us to St Roch.

Southern Food & Beverage Museum

Our very first night at the free concert we were given a flier for a parade, so we wanted to be sure to catch it. Plus our Mardi Gras shuttle driver assured us it was a nice area (and he was right) and how to best get there. From the River Walk it was easy to take the street car to Esplanade Ave. I found a restaurant called Three Muses with live Jazz music on Frenchman St, along the parade route. So we enjoyed a delicious dinner until the parade came by. Then ran out to watch it. Then ducked back in for dessert and the next set. It was a beautiful night and this was a really cool area. So we walked around a little bit, figuring we would wander back to the street car. But before we knew it we had walked half way home, so we did the second half too. We stopped at a cool Halloween themed bar along the way and chatted with the bartender. He had this camera hack I want to try where you use a screw to run a string from your camera’s tripod mount to the ground, then use tension with your foot to keep it steady. A bit later we walked by Houses of Blues, which looked cool and wondered to the back “Voodoo Garden”. We ordered drinks and when we tried to pay were told it was an open bar for the private party. As we were explaining we were strangers, who had just wondered in from the street, and the bartender was unsure what to do, a man on the other side of the bar said it was no problem, he would cover our drinks. Turns out we had crashed some sort of Warner Brothers Records party. Oops!

From the Parade

Sunday.

Sunday was our big day to see St Roch’s Cemetery. We had breakfast at the hotel to be sure we were ready on time. Or recommended cabbie and protector, Irvin met us at our hotel and we took off. He first brought us by the lower 9th, the area hit the worse by Katrina. You can clearly see here how the ground is below sea level. Everything in this area was destroyed. The only remains of original houses are ruins. Thousands of people died. We saw the houses Brad Pitt built for his “Make it Right”. They are all on stilts, using all the top energy efficiency technologies, so they will be more affordable to maintain. Brad Pitt did all of that right out of his pocket. What used to be a full neighborhood, now the only standing houses he built. He came down right after the storm, like many other people did, but when he heard that the government had no plan to do anything for these people he just did it himself.

Some of the Make it Right houses built by Brad Pit

What was once a house

After that we headed to St. Roch’s Cemetery. This cemetery was similar in style to St Louis Cemetery. Irvin said the gravel topped graves were ones that still had vacancies, the ones with a cement top were at full capacity. My mom actually picked some bones off one more turned up looking grave, but we were pretty sure they were animal bones. A few of the graves showed damage / displacement from the flooding that had still not been repaired. Unfortunately the church with the relic room was closed for renovations, but we could at least peak through the window.

St. Rochs Cemetery

My mother, the grave digger

The relics we could see of St. Roch’s Cemetery

Irvin dropped us off back by the French Market. It was like any street market with all kinds of vendors selling souvenirs to jewelry to t-shirts. I bought a wax seal from an actual french guy (living here 10 years) who had a nice both with all kinds of paper goods. We worked our way through the market then to Johnny’s Po Boy which was fine but did not live up to the hype everyone had given it, possibly because of the crowds in the center for the game that day.

Our cabbie and protector, Irvin

In the evening we went to Old Absinth House where we had a round of Nouvelle-Orléans Absinthe Supérieure. That got us ready for the ghost tour we were taking that night. The ghost tour was pretty good, our guide was Eugenia and we stopped at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Bar. We had dinner that night at the Gumbo House, it is actually really hard to find places to get dinner later at night.

The Absinthe House Frappe

Monday.

We started off Monday with breakfast at Cafe on the Corner. We were booked to take a plantation tour all day, but we stopped by Whixnits Gallery quick that morning to see an old friend of my aunt’s.

We did a tour of two old plantation houses. The first was Laura, a Creole plantation house. All the stories they have are from what they found archaeologically in the structure and from the memoirs of the last owner, Laura. It had a really rich history of being passed through generations in their family. The business was run by the smartest member of the family, male or female. They had strong french connections. Some men in the family went to school in France. One of the women who ran it married a Frenchmen, inherited his land back in France, and made the family even richer by importing wine. They had a large amount of slaves. Louisianan in the plantation era had ^relatively liberal slave laws and the population was 10% white, 80% slave, and another 10% free-people-of-color. Whether a colored child was free or slave depended on his mother, if his mother was free so was the child, if the mother was slave he was property of the mother’s owner. Laura’s great great grandmother bought herself 30 slave women and five men, and waited, soon they had one of the largest slave registries on the Mississippi. A generation later, her son is now running the plantation, a son she always said didn’t beat the slaves enough. One day he buys back a mother and son who were going to be separated after his mother had sold them to keep them together. That woman asks to stay on after all slaves are freed as a paid worker. The next generation is Laura, and she can’t stomach anything about plantation life. When her father dies she sells for very little and in the newspaper article about it she describes this colored family as part of her family.

Laura Plantation

Next we went to Oak Alley Plantation. This was the sight of several movies and TV shows including Interview with a Vampire. The plantation was build here to take advantage of two rows of existing Oak trees.

Oak Alley Plantation

One of the last things we did was each get a Gin Ramos Fizz at the Sazerac Bar in the Roosevelt Hotel. It was recommended to us by a bartender at lafitte’s blacksmith shop bar, and I’m glad we did it. One of my most memorable and delicious cocktails.

Gin Ramos Fizz at the Sazerac Bar in the Roosevelt Hotel

Tuesday.

Out last day in NOLA was Tuesday. The day before my mom had found an ad for a breakfast place, Red Gravy that had cannoli pancakes and was run by “the little Italian girl from New Jersey” so we had to go there. Asking the server about her it turns out she was actually the chef. Also both the other tables by us were from NJ. We made friends with them and we all, including the chef Roseann, compared notes on where we were from.

Cannoli pancakes

We only had a little time to kill after that, so we got some drinks and had them by the Marriott pool, which was actually a nice way to spend our last hour. Then finally we packed up our final things and met up with Irvin who was driving us to the airport. Since he knew we liked cemeteries, he brought us by one on our way. This was one for all the people who don’t have anyone to claim them. Maybe half the tombstones were real, the rest were handmade from cement or anything people had. The graves were squared off with wood or cement or different materials; one had PVC pipe. Many of the graves here seemed fresh. It was such a contrast to the marble mausoleums just down the street. Very strange.

On a much sadder note, we found out that morning that my Aunt Linda’s best friend Karen died in the early morning. Years ago she had a stomach bypass and had more or less been on borrowed time ever since. Recently it had become too much for her liver and she was going fast. She was a great engineer, but she never worked after that surgery. She was a really amazing one-of-a-kind person and it’s hard to believe she’s gone.

The rest of my photos from this trip are in my New Orleans album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111221349198606775660/20111019NewOrleans