Anguillara and Bracciano

Today Daniele and I went to the lake Bracciano and to the towns of Anguillara and Bracciano. The weather was not too cold, but on and off light rain. It’s about 25 miles northwest from here. Both towns are on hills surrounded by walls. They have a small historical center and a newer part or second city below. This is actually pretty typical all over Lazio and Italy. Even Monterotundo is the same.

We first stopped at Anguillara, Daniele’s favorite. It is really small and cute, but still has a supermarket and things in the new/downhill city. The historical center is a walled hill city, but it is right on the lake. It is just a few steps down to the port and the road along the water. There was almost no one there, now, in February; but in the summer the place gets packed. The place we wanted to have lunch was closed for renovations, so we ate at a place called Harvey’s instead.

After lunch we went to the next town on the lake, Bracciano. This town is a little bigger and a little farther up from the water. What I loved about it was that there is a castle. A big one. Historically belonged to the Orsini family and still does. Never sold or anything, a woman just lives in there. Incredible! We covered the tiny historical center then went outside the walls looking for a nice view. There were old paths from the city to the lake going through the countryside. We passed sheep (pecore), horses (cavalli) and a donkey (asino pronounced ass-ee-no) who came right to the fence to say hi and pose for some pictures.

In this area there is also a spring of naturally carbonated water. People go with their own bottles and take as much as they want. The carbonation has something to do with passing under the volcanic ground. I don’t understand 100%. We didn’t have any bottles so we didn’t go.

Speaking of bottles of water. In Anguillara, there were all these bottles of water on the ground. Apparently is is common knowledge in Italy that cats are freaked out by water; even the sight of it. So they put bottles of water in places to keep cats from peeing there. They were practically in every corner. I am fascinated by this theory and eager to test it on American cats.

[Edit] Link to pictures from this day:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20110305LakeBracciano#

Heading home from Milan

I got to visit Milan one last time. It worked out really well because my friend Dan who lives here is moving back to Brazil next week and I got to see him and go to his going away party.

Now I’m heading back to the US. It’s a long flight with a layover in Stockholm (not on the way). I leave at 6:30 AM Italy time and arrive in Newark at 3:15 PM EST.

This trip has been wonderful! I’ve seen so many places, met so many people, done so many things. Here are a few of the things I’ve learned these past three months.

How to carry my suitcase up and down the train station underpass to my platform.

How to schedule my train itinerary so I don’t have to carry my suitcase up and down the underpass.

How to take a shower in a tub with no curtain and leave the bathroom cleaner than when I started.

That toilet seats are not that important at home if it’s just girls.

All laundry should be turned inside out to be washed.

I do not do my laundry as well as I should. According to Filippa.

If I don’t get married soon, I won’t be able to. According to Filippa.

You can get canned pumpkin in Rome, but not pie crust.

Bananas make you fat. And I eat too many of them. According to Filippa.

To turn the water heater on an hour before I want to shower.

Washing my face with warm water in the morning is a luxury.

To light the stove with a lighter. With one hand. While I fill the pasta pot with the other.

Everything is cheaper in the US. Especially clothes. Especially US labels. Except espresso and pizza.

Vodafone is an evil company.

Heat in October is a luxury.

Fresh ricotta is nothing like what we buy back home in 12oz containers. The mozzarella is pretty amazing, too.

How to avoid eye contact with cruising Italians.

No matter how hot it is in the Metro you keep your coat on, hussy. Or be prepared for the stares.

The best place to buy cloths is from the street vendors. Actually that’s the best place to buy anything.

How to pee while squatting like a pro. (Thank you two years of bicycling in San Francisco.)

To recycle almost everything. My q-tips where the only thing I had to put in unsorted.

Where to find the three best gelaterias in Rome.

How much I love (and sometimes hate) Italians.

Leaving Rome

I traveled for September, seeing new places (Cinque Terre, Pisa, Siena, San Gimignano, Volterra, Florence, Berlin, Munich, Neuschwanstein, and Milan). For October and November I have been a part-time student, part-time tourist, part-time resident in Rome. I could immediately feel the difference between traveling and living in Italy, just like I remember from four years ago. I’m glad I spent a longer period in Rome opposed to continuing to travel. Besides that it is exhausting to travel, it is a completely different experience.

Now I am on the train from Rome to Milan. I’ll spend two nights there before I take off for my long trip back to the USA. I’m sad to leave Italy, especially sad to leave Daniele– but very excited to come back to the US. These past few weeks I have been constantly sick with a cough (so I can’t sleep), scabies, and more often than not a light fever. It’s really taking it’s toll on me. I’m actually a big of a wreck between it all.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Halloween

For Halloween Danielle and I went to Old Calcata with another couple, Gerlando and Valentina (I’m probably not spelling those right). Calcata has a pretty interesting history. “In the 1930s, the hill towns’s fortified historic center was condemned by the government for fear that the volcanic cliffs the ancient community was built upon would collapse. Local residents moved to nearby Calcata Nuova. In the 1960s, the emptied historical centre began to be repopulated by artists and hippies who squatted in its medieval stone and masonry structures. Many of the squatters eventually purchased their homes, the government reversed its condemnation order, and the residents of what had become an artistic community began restoring the ancient town.” –Wikipedia

Just as advertised, it was a medieval hill town full of artists and hippies. It’s a popular destination for Halloween with all of its condemned medieval goodness. The art shops were open late to peak into. The whole town was decorated with fake spider webs. There were also lots of jack-o’-lanterns and a few monsters. The little town museum was open and free. They even had a live band and a fire in the town square. It was pretty good.

I was happy to see a lot of people in costume and even more with a hat or some type of half-effort costume. Almost everyone had the “typical” costumes. For example more than half of the women were dressed as witches. I think we left near midnight, and people were still pouring in, some with more interesting costumes.

After Calcata we went to Gerlando’s for dessert. Valentina had made a bunt cake. We also had limoncello made by her mom from their lemon tree and booze soaked cherries (recommended!). It was all really good, but it was really late at night by then, and the clocks had changed the night before, so it felt even later. But only to me. Apparently the three of them have learned to overcome the need for sleep at normal hours from years of working as nurses. I had to be the party pooper.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

First month in Rome

I have finished my first month in Rome. I didn’t write very much during this time. At first everything was really busy and hard, then life seemed sort of everyday and not worth writing about.

My first week all I was doing was trying to find an apartment. It was very stressful. I was hating Rome but trying to withhold judgment. Everything was so hard. I couldn’t understand the Roman accent. No one is friendly. Now I’ve made it my mission to help every lost tourist I can, or to talk to them if we’re somewhere like the Metro. So that they might have a better impression of the people in Rome than I got my first days.

Things got better immediately after I moved into my apartment. I was living in a nicer part of Rome, the historical center, and I had Filippa. I made friends at school, through CouchSurfer, and through Filippa. I met Daniele, who took me out of the touristy zones I had been frequenting. It took a few weeks, but I was eventually able to understand the Roman Italian accent. Live is now pretty good, actually.

I finished my four weeks of language classes; made friends with a few of the girls there. Amy from Texas has been living in Rome for a year and a half with her Italian boyfriend she met back home. Sofi, Hungarian, is here considering going to university in Italy next year. Kimiko, Japanese has moved here to Rome and would like to work in tourism. Chiemi, also Japanese has been living here a year. Now I am studying on my own. Since I have plenty of people to practice with, this is better. I can work on the things I need to improve most. I am still spending plenty of time studying even without the motivation of class everyday. I signed up for the CILS level two (B2) test. This is the same test and level foreigners have to take to apply to an Italian university. It might be a little beyond my level, but I have nothing to lose if I fail.

This past month I have been having different Roman adventures in the afternoon, evening, and weekends.

If I don’t go out at night, I typically walk around my neighborhood, by the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo. There are a lot of designer shops around here with beautiful window displays.

It is maybe a 10 minute walk to the Trevi Foutain or Pantheon. I go there a lot, but it’s a little too tempting to not get a gelato when I do.

My second Sunday here Filippa and I went to the beach. We took the train and it was about 30 minutes away. It reminded me of a city beach in California, nice but you know it is much nicer if you go just a little further away. Unfortunately there are still those horribly annoying venders. So every few minutes you are asked if you would like to buy some sunglasses, necklaces, or some other crap. I was prepared in advance that Filippa wore a two piece because I saw it drying in the bathroom. It also fits perfectly with her Italian personality. That’s old Italy, not today’s Italy with lots of American influence. I mean, we don’t even have a toilet seat, I don’t expect her to have my idea of modesty. She didn’t wear the suit top most of the time we were at the beach, but again, that fit perfectly well with what I expect from her. I’m pretty sure she never wears a bra, so why would she keep her bathing suit top on at the beach?

The following Sunday Filippa and I went together to Porta Portese, but we split up pretty quickly. Porta Portese is a gigantic market every Sunday. Everything you can think of is there. Clothes, shoes, and jewelry, sure, but also furniture, housewares, animals, books, and all sorts of other things. A lot of the same things vendors sell in the center you can find there for less. I would like to go back one more time.

I also made a Pumpkin Pie. It was a little tricky finding all the ingredients here. It was definitely tricky converting the recipe to metric. Not only is it metric, they measure in mass. Cups and the other units we use are all volume. Each ingredient has it’s own conversion rate. And they sell butter in two different size sticks here. It was a fun exercise in 2nd grade mathematics.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Musei Vaticani

Today I finally went to the Vatican Museum. When my mom, Aunt Linda, and I came to Rome four years ago we made our “Vatican” day Sunday. We did this to get our stuff blessed by the pope, not realizing the museum is closed on Sundays and we would miss the Sistine Chapel. I’ve been waiting for a whole free day to see the entire thing; that was today.

I visited for about six hours. I saw everything, from the Sistine Chapel and the Rafael Rooms to the modern art and Vatican stamps rooms. I planned ahead to take my time and spend the day there, so I packed a small lunch. As I was about to leave the cafe, the table next to me needed another chair. I called over to them that I was leaving, and as the girl still standing turned to thank me and take it, I saw it was my friend Med Murray from High School! Then as I looked closer I saw that Cecelia Gondek was also there. The third girl was a friend of Cecelia’s from grad school. We caught up and chatted for a little while. Meg had been working in a recording studio in New York until last February when she moved to LA. Unfortunately they were continuing on to Tuscany the next day, so we couldn’t make other plans, but it was a really nice surprise.

Here’s us in the cafe:

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Places in Rome

This post is just for me to remember all my favorite places here in Rome.

Vatican Area

Castroni
American Groceries
Few different locations

Panifico Mosca
Via Candia, 16
Pizza to go. Perfect to grab before waiting in Vatican line.
Metro: Ottaviano

Greater Vatican Area / Via Cola di Rienzo

Gelarmony
Via Marcantonio Colonna 34
00192 Rome
Neighborhood: Prati
http://www.gelarmony.it/
Phone: 06 3202395
My favorite gelateria, Sicilian, so you can also get a fabulous cannoli!
Right next to Mondo Arancina
Metro: Lepanto

Mondo Arancina
Via Marcantonio Colonna, 38
00192 Roma
06 9761 9214
mondoarancina.it‎
Delicious fried rice balls. Right next to my favorite gelateria.
Metro: Lepanto

Pantheon Area, all very close

Della Palma
Via della Maddalena, 19/23
Gelateria with lots and lots of flavors

Divino
Via dei Pastini, 112
0669941328
2.50 euro Beers

La Casa Del Caffe’ Tazza D’Oro Dal 1946
Via degli Orfani, 84, Roma
Tel 06.6789792
www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com
Iced espresso

Gelateria Artigianale Buccianti
Via Guistiniani, 18/A
www.gelatosimplyitalian.com

Misc.

Pompi – il Regno del Tiramisu
Via Calpurnio Fiamma, 67, Roma
Tel 06.768635
King of Tiramisu
Metro: Re di Roma

Gelateria Origini
Via Del Gesu 73/a, angolo via Pie di Marmo, 00186 Roma
Via Degli Olmetti 3-, 00060 Formello, Roma
Tel 06.45473915
All natural gelato

Doctor Look
Via Domenico Tardini, 20 (near Cornelia)
0666144972
Hair stylist

UPDATE July 2011, July 2012

Kevin and Andrea Visit

Kevin and Andrea (friends from Northeastern) are taking a Mediterranean Cruise that stopped in Rome. So I got a visit from them yesterday. They got in at 10am and had to be back at 4:30, so it was just a short excursion but was great seeing them and we got a lot in the short time.

They came into St. Peters station, Daniele and I met them there. It’s near the Vatican, so we went there first. And since it was Wednesday the Pope was giving his blessing. We chilled out with Ben [http://www.vatican.va/holy_father/benedict_xvi/index.htm] for a little while and did a loop around the square taking pictures. Then grabbed a little snack of arancini at a place that is only arancini. Yum! Then we went to one of the hills, Gienico, maybe? I can never remember those names. There we could see the whole city. Then we headed into the historical center where we luckily found great parking right away. We had just enough time for quick stops at the Roman Forum, the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and some gelato before it was time to bring Kevin and Andrea back and Daniele had to go to work.

I got a lot of great pictures. They should be up today!

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Out with Filippa

Last night Filippa took me out for gelato near the Pantheon. I mentioned before she knows everyone in the neighborhood. She took me to a bar / restaurant nearby just to introduce me to everyone who works there. She is telling everyone she is friends with my parents. Then while waiting for the bus, she pointed out the Carabinieri. I asked the difference between the Carabinieri and Polizia and she called them over and had them explain, chatted with them until the bus came. Later we passed a police station and she had us go in, chatted up the girl working at the desk, and had her explain the difference again. And model for me the difference in uniform. When we walked out she said to me in Italian, “I’m not exactly normal”. (In case you are curious, the polizia are civilian, and the cababinieri have a military structure.) We got delicious gelati and took cover from some rain in a museum entrance across the street, where she knew the people there as well. Then we went to the Pantheon, which was amazing. The noble families in Italy (or maybe just Rome) still get married there. Rome seems smaller with Filippa.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Arrived in Rome

I have arrived in Rome where I will stay the rest of this trip to Europe. When I first got here the friend of a friend I was supposed to meet, an Italian girl, changed her mind and decided to stay out of the city for the night with her family. So I had to make new plans last minute. Leaning against the train station wall, looking only at my cell phone, an old gypsy woman walked by cursing at me and making hand gestures. Then when she had finished passing, she mooned me! Buonvenuta a Roma!

My first days were busy starting school and apartment hunting. I was staying near the Vatican (near my school) and not taking time to visit the sights in the center. I had blocked from my memory how difficult it was to find an Italian apartment last time (4 years ago in Milan). There is no single website here like we have back home. Everything is in Italian. Everything moves at the speed of Italy. It really enforces how difficult it can be for foreigners.

But I have an apartment now! I’m living near Piazza di Spagnia (the Spanish Steps) just a few feet away from Via del Corso, a pretty important street. It’s the historical center. I’m lucky to have found a room here for only 2 months. My room is in the apartment of a little old Italian lady, Filippa. She has lived in this apartment for 25 years! She knows everyone in the neighborhood. She does not speak any English and she is determined to teach me Italian. It’s fantastic! Though she smokes, and I forgot how much I hate cigarette smoke. Though I can hardly ask her to stop in her home.

I finished my first week of language classes. The school is smaller than I expected. My language school in Milan had so many students it was so easy to make friends there. Though I have yet to be bored. It is not the best school I have been to, but since I have a full scholarship I have nothing to complain about.

I came here with two main language goals. First I would like to be able to speak Italian with my personality. Now I can only speak simply, it’s not really “me”. Second I am OK at having a conversation with one patient person. But when I go out in a group it is almost impossible with everyone talking faster and all at once. I want to be able to have a conversation with a group of people and hold my own. But these two goals have been forgotten since I arrived in Rome and realized I can’t understand anything. No one told me before I got here that the Roman people mumbled– they are known for “eating their words”. I can hardly talk to one person (depending on how thick their accent is). But I think I am getting better listening to Filippa and my teacher so much. I hope.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#