First month in Rome

I have finished my first month in Rome. I didn’t write very much during this time. At first everything was really busy and hard, then life seemed sort of everyday and not worth writing about.

My first week all I was doing was trying to find an apartment. It was very stressful. I was hating Rome but trying to withhold judgment. Everything was so hard. I couldn’t understand the Roman accent. No one is friendly. Now I’ve made it my mission to help every lost tourist I can, or to talk to them if we’re somewhere like the Metro. So that they might have a better impression of the people in Rome than I got my first days.

Things got better immediately after I moved into my apartment. I was living in a nicer part of Rome, the historical center, and I had Filippa. I made friends at school, through CouchSurfer, and through Filippa. I met Daniele, who took me out of the touristy zones I had been frequenting. It took a few weeks, but I was eventually able to understand the Roman Italian accent. Live is now pretty good, actually.

I finished my four weeks of language classes; made friends with a few of the girls there. Amy from Texas has been living in Rome for a year and a half with her Italian boyfriend she met back home. Sofi, Hungarian, is here considering going to university in Italy next year. Kimiko, Japanese has moved here to Rome and would like to work in tourism. Chiemi, also Japanese has been living here a year. Now I am studying on my own. Since I have plenty of people to practice with, this is better. I can work on the things I need to improve most. I am still spending plenty of time studying even without the motivation of class everyday. I signed up for the CILS level two (B2) test. This is the same test and level foreigners have to take to apply to an Italian university. It might be a little beyond my level, but I have nothing to lose if I fail.

This past month I have been having different Roman adventures in the afternoon, evening, and weekends.

If I don’t go out at night, I typically walk around my neighborhood, by the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo. There are a lot of designer shops around here with beautiful window displays.

It is maybe a 10 minute walk to the Trevi Foutain or Pantheon. I go there a lot, but it’s a little too tempting to not get a gelato when I do.

My second Sunday here Filippa and I went to the beach. We took the train and it was about 30 minutes away. It reminded me of a city beach in California, nice but you know it is much nicer if you go just a little further away. Unfortunately there are still those horribly annoying venders. So every few minutes you are asked if you would like to buy some sunglasses, necklaces, or some other crap. I was prepared in advance that Filippa wore a two piece because I saw it drying in the bathroom. It also fits perfectly with her Italian personality. That’s old Italy, not today’s Italy with lots of American influence. I mean, we don’t even have a toilet seat, I don’t expect her to have my idea of modesty. She didn’t wear the suit top most of the time we were at the beach, but again, that fit perfectly well with what I expect from her. I’m pretty sure she never wears a bra, so why would she keep her bathing suit top on at the beach?

The following Sunday Filippa and I went together to Porta Portese, but we split up pretty quickly. Porta Portese is a gigantic market every Sunday. Everything you can think of is there. Clothes, shoes, and jewelry, sure, but also furniture, housewares, animals, books, and all sorts of other things. A lot of the same things vendors sell in the center you can find there for less. I would like to go back one more time.

I also made a Pumpkin Pie. It was a little tricky finding all the ingredients here. It was definitely tricky converting the recipe to metric. Not only is it metric, they measure in mass. Cups and the other units we use are all volume. Each ingredient has it’s own conversion rate. And they sell butter in two different size sticks here. It was a fun exercise in 2nd grade mathematics.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Musei Vaticani

Today I finally went to the Vatican Museum. When my mom, Aunt Linda, and I came to Rome four years ago we made our “Vatican” day Sunday. We did this to get our stuff blessed by the pope, not realizing the museum is closed on Sundays and we would miss the Sistine Chapel. I’ve been waiting for a whole free day to see the entire thing; that was today.

I visited for about six hours. I saw everything, from the Sistine Chapel and the Rafael Rooms to the modern art and Vatican stamps rooms. I planned ahead to take my time and spend the day there, so I packed a small lunch. As I was about to leave the cafe, the table next to me needed another chair. I called over to them that I was leaving, and as the girl still standing turned to thank me and take it, I saw it was my friend Med Murray from High School! Then as I looked closer I saw that Cecelia Gondek was also there. The third girl was a friend of Cecelia’s from grad school. We caught up and chatted for a little while. Meg had been working in a recording studio in New York until last February when she moved to LA. Unfortunately they were continuing on to Tuscany the next day, so we couldn’t make other plans, but it was a really nice surprise.

Here’s us in the cafe:

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Places in Rome

This post is just for me to remember all my favorite places here in Rome.

Vatican Area

Castroni
American Groceries
Few different locations

Panifico Mosca
Via Candia, 16
Pizza to go. Perfect to grab before waiting in Vatican line.
Metro: Ottaviano

Greater Vatican Area / Via Cola di Rienzo

Gelarmony
Via Marcantonio Colonna 34
00192 Rome
Neighborhood: Prati
http://www.gelarmony.it/
Phone: 06 3202395
My favorite gelateria, Sicilian, so you can also get a fabulous cannoli!
Right next to Mondo Arancina
Metro: Lepanto

Mondo Arancina
Via Marcantonio Colonna, 38
00192 Roma
06 9761 9214
mondoarancina.it‎
Delicious fried rice balls. Right next to my favorite gelateria.
Metro: Lepanto

Pantheon Area, all very close

Della Palma
Via della Maddalena, 19/23
Gelateria with lots and lots of flavors

Divino
Via dei Pastini, 112
0669941328
2.50 euro Beers

La Casa Del Caffe’ Tazza D’Oro Dal 1946
Via degli Orfani, 84, Roma
Tel 06.6789792
www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com
Iced espresso

Gelateria Artigianale Buccianti
Via Guistiniani, 18/A
www.gelatosimplyitalian.com

Misc.

Pompi – il Regno del Tiramisu
Via Calpurnio Fiamma, 67, Roma
Tel 06.768635
King of Tiramisu
Metro: Re di Roma

Gelateria Origini
Via Del Gesu 73/a, angolo via Pie di Marmo, 00186 Roma
Via Degli Olmetti 3-, 00060 Formello, Roma
Tel 06.45473915
All natural gelato

Doctor Look
Via Domenico Tardini, 20 (near Cornelia)
0666144972
Hair stylist

UPDATE July 2011, July 2012

Kevin and Andrea Visit

Kevin and Andrea (friends from Northeastern) are taking a Mediterranean Cruise that stopped in Rome. So I got a visit from them yesterday. They got in at 10am and had to be back at 4:30, so it was just a short excursion but was great seeing them and we got a lot in the short time.

They came into St. Peters station, Daniele and I met them there. It’s near the Vatican, so we went there first. And since it was Wednesday the Pope was giving his blessing. We chilled out with Ben [http://www.vatican.va/holy_father/benedict_xvi/index.htm] for a little while and did a loop around the square taking pictures. Then grabbed a little snack of arancini at a place that is only arancini. Yum! Then we went to one of the hills, Gienico, maybe? I can never remember those names. There we could see the whole city. Then we headed into the historical center where we luckily found great parking right away. We had just enough time for quick stops at the Roman Forum, the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and some gelato before it was time to bring Kevin and Andrea back and Daniele had to go to work.

I got a lot of great pictures. They should be up today!

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Out with Filippa

Last night Filippa took me out for gelato near the Pantheon. I mentioned before she knows everyone in the neighborhood. She took me to a bar / restaurant nearby just to introduce me to everyone who works there. She is telling everyone she is friends with my parents. Then while waiting for the bus, she pointed out the Carabinieri. I asked the difference between the Carabinieri and Polizia and she called them over and had them explain, chatted with them until the bus came. Later we passed a police station and she had us go in, chatted up the girl working at the desk, and had her explain the difference again. And model for me the difference in uniform. When we walked out she said to me in Italian, “I’m not exactly normal”. (In case you are curious, the polizia are civilian, and the cababinieri have a military structure.) We got delicious gelati and took cover from some rain in a museum entrance across the street, where she knew the people there as well. Then we went to the Pantheon, which was amazing. The noble families in Italy (or maybe just Rome) still get married there. Rome seems smaller with Filippa.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Arrived in Rome

I have arrived in Rome where I will stay the rest of this trip to Europe. When I first got here the friend of a friend I was supposed to meet, an Italian girl, changed her mind and decided to stay out of the city for the night with her family. So I had to make new plans last minute. Leaning against the train station wall, looking only at my cell phone, an old gypsy woman walked by cursing at me and making hand gestures. Then when she had finished passing, she mooned me! Buonvenuta a Roma!

My first days were busy starting school and apartment hunting. I was staying near the Vatican (near my school) and not taking time to visit the sights in the center. I had blocked from my memory how difficult it was to find an Italian apartment last time (4 years ago in Milan). There is no single website here like we have back home. Everything is in Italian. Everything moves at the speed of Italy. It really enforces how difficult it can be for foreigners.

But I have an apartment now! I’m living near Piazza di Spagnia (the Spanish Steps) just a few feet away from Via del Corso, a pretty important street. It’s the historical center. I’m lucky to have found a room here for only 2 months. My room is in the apartment of a little old Italian lady, Filippa. She has lived in this apartment for 25 years! She knows everyone in the neighborhood. She does not speak any English and she is determined to teach me Italian. It’s fantastic! Though she smokes, and I forgot how much I hate cigarette smoke. Though I can hardly ask her to stop in her home.

I finished my first week of language classes. The school is smaller than I expected. My language school in Milan had so many students it was so easy to make friends there. Though I have yet to be bored. It is not the best school I have been to, but since I have a full scholarship I have nothing to complain about.

I came here with two main language goals. First I would like to be able to speak Italian with my personality. Now I can only speak simply, it’s not really “me”. Second I am OK at having a conversation with one patient person. But when I go out in a group it is almost impossible with everyone talking faster and all at once. I want to be able to have a conversation with a group of people and hold my own. But these two goals have been forgotten since I arrived in Rome and realized I can’t understand anything. No one told me before I got here that the Roman people mumbled– they are known for “eating their words”. I can hardly talk to one person (depending on how thick their accent is). But I think I am getting better listening to Filippa and my teacher so much. I hope.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Milano

I’m just leaving Milano now for Rome. I had a wonderful time. It makes me so happy to go back there and find the city more or less how I left it. When I lived there four years ago, the saddest thing about leaving is I felt I would never be able to come back. I felt that what I loved about Milano was all the international friends I had made there and that those people would have moved on before I could ever return. Many of those people are gone now, but many are still there. In fact the ones that are still seem to be closer with each other than ever.

I stayed with Dan and his boyfriend, Eduardo (or Dado). Not only did they take me in but they made all the plans for my birthday. I got in late the 22nd, but we met some of Dan’s friends for a drink. The 23rd Dan had to work, but Dado and I had a lovely day in Milan. He made me breakfast then we met one of the girls from the night before and Nick, Dan’s old roommate who I met two years ago, for a delicious lunch. And had coffee after where Luc works. I knew Luc 4 years ago, though not well then since we did not have a solid language in common. In the evening Dado, Dan, and I helped a coworker of his with his new apartment and got pizza. Then we went to a club opening, Tropicana. No dieing my hair. A wonderful birthday!

I spent two more full days in Milan. It really is a wonderful city and so different from the little Tuscan towns I had visited before then. Those tiny centers live only on tourism and are surrounded by farms and vineyards. Milan is a self sufficient city where the tourists stay near the touristy parts (like a US city). I also got to eat very well being shown around by my local friends.

[Edit] Photos from Milano Visit:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100923Milano#

München and Neuschwanstein Castle

I had a great ride into Munich. There was a guy in our sleeper car that had great stories and helped me get situated with the right subway ticket when we first arrived. I waited around in the airport for a little while and easily met up with Steve and Chris (friends from High School) after they landed.

We immediately hopped in a rental car and drove to Neuschwanstein Castle. The Walt Disney castle is based on this place. It was pretty sweet. Once we were there, about an hour south of Munich, we went the last 20 minutes into Austria for the sake of having visited Austria. We found ourselves in a family run restaurant in a tiny little town. They were so nice to us.

That night we just went to a local bar. It was pretty empty when we arrived, but soon after the place was packed. The tents in Octoberfest close at 10:30. The next day, once we recovered enough, we headed to the grounds. We walked around, took pictures, peeked in all the tents, rode the ferris wheel, that kind of thing. Then we had lunch and some beers at tent with a boat stage inside, I can’t remember the name. It was so fun. We made friends with some Swiss guys next to us. We learned from the night before and did a quick pit stop back in the room and drank a lot of water. Then we headed back out for dinner and more Octoberfest. We spent the night at the Hippodrom. It was such a party. Everyone was dancing on the benches, which is not easy, by the way. They are shacking like mad from everyone jumping on them and people are bumping into you and I was wearing really tall heals. I fell a few times. We were lucky to be there during the week when you can just walk right into the tents. On the weekends there are lines to get in.

The next day the boys had to catch a plane back to Paris, where Chris is at University. We had a delicious free breakfast together at the Marriott, thanks to Steve’s platinum status, then had to say goodbye. I planned on traveling overnight to Milan, so I had the day to kill by myself. Luckily there is no easier place in the world to make friends than Octoberfest, so I figured I would just pick a tent and go in for a beer. Even though this breaks my personal philosophy of never going into a bar by myself. Luckily I made friends with two guys, Craig and Michel, as soon as I went to a table. We had a great night! We sang this drinking song, which is based on a children’s song.

This was my second time to Munich, but my first time to Octoberfest. I was here once before in April with Jeff and Drew two years ago. I’m glad I did it that way because Munich is a really cool city with a lot of sights. But being there during Octoberfest, all we wanted to do was go to Octoberfest. Since I had been before I could ignore the Glockenspiel without guilt.

Now I’m on my way to Milan, my last stop before Rome and where I’ll be for my birthday. I can’t believe it’s my 25th birthday tomorrow. I thought I would be bummed out not to be back home having a big party, but I couldn’t be happier. Well, I guess maybe if I wasn’t so hung over right now. I was thinking I might die my hair as a crazy thing to do for it. But everyone seems to think that’s a bad idea, that I should keep my color. Well see what happens tomorrow!

[Edit] Photos from Neuschwanstein Castle:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100919NeuschwansteinCastle#

Photos from Octoberfest:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100920Octoberfest#

Berlin

I couldn’t find a room in Zurich, so I decided to go to Berlin instead. I took an overnight train in and got in at 2 PM Thursday. I stayed at the Berlin Wombat Hostel for 2 nights. It’s the same chain that Jeff, Drew and I stayed at in Vienna and Munich two years ago. It’s the nicest hostel ever. Then took an overnight train to Munich on Saturday night.

What did I do in Berlin? Thursday not too much, walked around and had a nice German dinner. Friday I took a six hour walking tour that Andrew recommended to me. It was really good. I saw all the sights, actually learned what they are, as well as history of the city and Germany. It was like I did all of Berlin in a day, without having to figure out what to see. That night we made our own pub crawl with a crowd from the dorm room and the tour. We went to Tacheles, a crazy artist squatter’s bar, and a few others. The other travelers I met in Berlin were super friendly. The next day I checked out and stored my stuff at the hostel while I did one museum and more walking and eating. I’m liking German food much more this visit, though I am still eating a lot of falafel.

Now I’m taking another overnight train to Munich. There I hope to easily meet up with Chris and Steve. Psyched for what’s planned!

[Edit] Link to photos from Berlin:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100917Berlin#

Cinque Terre, Second Time

I’m on my way out of Cinque Terre for the second time this trip. I’m so glad I went back, it was like getting more summer. I really liked having more warm beach time after my time in the Tuscan hills. This time I didn’t feel obligated to do any of the hikes, I just relaxed on the beach. I can’t believe how fast time goes by at Cinque Terre, it felt like I was in and out, not there for 5 days.

I hung out more with the Albanian guys I quickly mentioned in my other 5 Terre post. It was super fun going out with locals at night. I went to a birthday party one night for the first one I met, Elton, in La Spezia. It was really interesting how the language dynamic changes so easily. One minute I am the least able to communicate person in the room, add another English speaker, and I’m the translator. It’s both fascinating and exhausting.

Now I am on my way to Germany. It will take me a whole day in transit. I’m spending 2 nights in Berlin. Then meeting Steve and Chris from High School in Munich. After that it’s back to my old stomping grounds: Milano. Then to settle down in Rome. Pretty excited for all of it!

[Edit] Link to Le Cinque Terre Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100825CinqueTerre#