Category: Rome

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Coronation Pope Francesco

It was pretty big news here in Rome, and everywhere, last month when Benedict XVI put in notice. It happened really fast, he announced on 11 February that his last day would be 28 February. I was mostly excited that I would be here in Rome for the Conclave. Unfortunately, conclave takes place over a period of time and you never know when the cardinals are going to come to consensus and send out that white smoke. They happened to decide very quickly, conclave started 12 March and they decided 13 March. I missed it. I watched on TV like everyone else, as they announced Cardinal Jorge Mario Bergoglio of Argentina Pope Francis, or Papa Francesco (after St. Francis of Assisi).

I was able to plan on being in the Vatican for the coronation of Papa Francesco. They call it a coronation from when the Pope was the ruler of the “Stato Pontificio” comprised of modern Lazio, Umbria, Marche, and southern-eastern Emilia-Romania. The new pope would hold a mass, which is special because the pope almost never does the mass, he just does the blessing.

We filled into St. Peter’s Square, passing through security. The square was crowded, but we were able to enter. There were walk ways fenced off separating large areas for the crowds. The round piazza is a bit bowl shaped, presumably for water drainage, however it is not the best design for a stadium-type event.

Before things kicked off, Papa Francesco took a few laps around the crowds on an open top vehicle of some sort. Everyone was going nuts trying to rush to the fence where he was. The only time I saw him get down was near what I referred to as “Campo Argentina”, there were supposedly some disabled people or children there.

The first part of the mass/ceremony took place inside of St Peter’s Cathedral. It was pretty short and we had big screens to view it. The procession leaving the cathedral to the altar set up just outside was rather impressive. There are a lot of cardinals. They all had on their matching robes and were just generally impressive.

The mass was pretty normal. As mentioned, there was an altar set up just outside the doors to the Cathedral. There was an amazing choir to the left, along with the other clergy. The diplomats were seated to the right. Pope Frank gave a great speech on how we are not just Christians, but humans and doing good in the world. This was also the mass of San Giuseppe (Italian Father’s Day), many people had books that they were following along with the mass and songs. I didn’t get one until the mass was over.

I admit I was a bit lost in the mass, as it was in Latin/Italian opposed to my more comfortable English/Latin mass, though I probably understood better than most of the crowd (minus the Italians). Where as the every Wednesday Vatican blessing is repeated in several languages, very few parts were done in multiple languages.

At one point soft yellow and blue (the colors of Argentina) umbrellas seemed to almost be floating down where I knew the fenced off corridors to be. This was shortly after the “peace be with you” bit which was surprisingly fun as no two people I shook hands with said the same thing back to me. Right around then there was also a lot of shuffling in front of me and I took the opportunity to get closer. Then I saw there was a yellow and blue umbrella just in front of us, and beneath it a priest giving communion… duh. Though not that big a ‘duh’ because they normally don’t give communion out in the square. In fact, Daniele says he’s never heard of it.

Obviously at this point the mass was almost over, but I had a really great spot now! I hung around for a little hoping that Papa Francesco might make another round and we could spend more quality time together. But as that looked less likely I asked the Swiss Guard in front of me if anything else was planed, and it was not, so I headed out.

Pictures from the mass:
https://plus.google.com/photos/111221349198606775660/albums/5857941830730346881

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Rome at the Holidays

This year I came back to Rome right after Christmas. This allowed me to spend New Years with my sweetie and to see the holiday decorations in Rome that I normally miss. They strictly take them down after Epiphany. They put trees up in most of the big piazzas but their big thing are the Nativity scenes.

We started with an old special Nativity that was made by the garbageman. It is called the “Presepe dei Netturbini”. It is actually open all year long, so coming this time of year when there is a line to get in may not have been the best idea. It is made to look like Jerusalem and incorporates pieces of rock from all over the world.

Next we went to Saint Peter’s Square (the Vatican) where they had both a beautiful tree and nativity. Different countries in Europe alternate donating the tree to the Vatican. This year the tree came from Southern Italy. It was lit during a ceremony on December 14th. After the holidays the wood is donated to several groups that manufacture toys for children in need.

The nativity at Saint Peter’s Square this year was modeled after Basilicata in Southern Italy, from where it was made and donated. It was very impressive. It had just been revealed Christmas Eve.

The city of Rome also decorated most of its streets with lights. Including a ribbon of lights down Via Del Corso and lamps down the high-end shopping street Via Condotti. Different shops alternate sponsoring the lamps on Condotti, this year they were from Mercedes who also put up a tree at the head of the street where it intersects Via del Corso. Fendi, who have their giant store at the location also have a tree there made of baguette bags. Most of the little side streets in the historical center are decorated as well.


Ribbon of lights down Via Del Corso


Mercedes lamps down the high-end shopping street Via Condotti. That’s the Spanish Steps at the end.


Mercedes tree at Via Condotti and Via del Corso


Fendi tree at Via Condotti and Via del Corso

Piazza del Spagna (Spanish Steps) was probably the most impressive. The church at the top was all lit up and there was a giant tree with a nativity below. Approaching it by way of the sparkling Via Condotti made it all the more magical.

Nativity under the tree at Piazza del Spagna

We didn’t think there was anything at Piazza del Popolo, but walking through there on our way home we found another tree!

We came back for another round on Saturday, January 5. We still hadn’t seen all the big piazzas and that night they would be having Epiphany celebrations in Piazza Navona, so I could check that out, too.

We started with Campidoglio Hill. They had a tree and a small detailed nativity behind glass. They were also setting up another life-size nativity that would be revealed the next day as part of the Epiphany celebrations along with a concert I gathered. But we weren’t free Sunday to come back.

We went next to the Colosseum. I just can’t get used to turning a corner and seeing the Colosseum no matter how long I’m here.

From there we headed to Piazza Navona where it was full of people. Full. Navona is possibly the largest piazza in Rome. It is the ovular one with the three fountains, the middle one is themed after the four great known (at the time) rivers. It is the one they used to flood and stage naval battles in– a big piazza. Along the sides there were vendors selling donut-like sweets and cotton candy, as well as toys and La Befana dolls.

A side note on the history and Italian traditions of Epiphany. While in the United States the Christmas Season is unofficially observed from Thanksgiving to Christmas day, in Italy on the other hand it is very officially observed from Christmas Eve night through Epiphany (January 6). These “Twelve Days of Christmas” are a celebration of the period from Christ’s birth through the visit of the Magi / Three Kings / Three Wise Men. While you may have a Christmas party with coworkers or friends before this 12 day period, generally Christmas and its decorations and hoopla don’t ooze too much out of it. This period is almost immediately followed by the start of Carnevale celebrations, which we in the US are completely lacking or think of as a single Tuesday. Perhaps that’s why we like to make Christmas a month long.

Italian Epiphany traditions are largely aimed at children, and having grown up in the US I can’t describe them first hand. What I have gathered is there is a type of witch named La Befana who is neither good nor bad. She enters children’s homes from the chimney and leaves them candy or small toys in their stockings; bad children get coal.

A few days later we happened to be in Saint Peter’s Cathedral and we saw they had a Nativity set up inside besides the one set up out in the piazza. It was so crowded and the photo can’t do it justice, it was the most beautiful we saw.

The complete album:
https://plus.google.com/photos/111221349198606775660/albums/5836296191021293377

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Rome Summer 2012

I’m just finishing another round in Rome. This trip was a bit shorter because I have to return to NJ for my Italian citizenship appointment, which I’ve had for a year and could not be moved. After that I’ll be state-side until 2013.

I wanted to give a recap of the trip. I was here July 24 through September 17, so only a month and a half really.

We went to the beach any day off we had. Last year we went to Ostia more, which is “Rome’s beach”. It’s a bit crowded there, but they have a great gelateria! This year we mostly went to Fregene, which is a bit north, so easier for us. It’s considered a bit more high class, for whatever reason. I liked it because I like walking around the area and looking at the beautiful villas. However there are less shops, so we pack our own lunch to come here.

We also made it into the center pretty often. Went to happy hours, markets, or just walked around taking pictures. Along the river in the summer temporary bars, restaurants, and markets set up. They are open late at night and light up the whole river. Daniele has been going a bit crazy buying happy hours and dinners on online coupon sites.


Rome’s “Isola Tiberina” all lit up for summer

There is always a lot going on in summer. We were able to organize Daniele’s friends Gerlano and Valentina as well as family for dinners and different things. We went to Magic Land, a medieval kingdom themed park. And we had a nice BBQ picnic for Ferragosto, a holiday the 15th of August.


Gerlando and Daniele at the BBQ

The big thing we did was take two back to back mini-vacations to Umbria. First to stay with cousins, second just for a weekend away. I wrote about those already is separate posts.

All in all a pretty good summer and a good trip, even though it had to be so short.

Next up is a two-week stop back home in NJ. I have that citizenship appointment, my birthday, a bunch of wedding stuff to do (including bridesmaid dress shopping), and a few family parties. Then I’m off to San Francisco for October!

The full photo album from this trip:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111221349198606775660/20120724Roma#

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Abbazia delle Tre Fontane

On March 14, 2012 Daniele and I visited the Abbazia delle Tre Fontane. This is an abbey built on a site of three springs, the site of martyrdom of St. Paul.

This write-up and photos are from over a year ago, March 2012, but they never made it up. I’m trying to upload old pictures and the accompanying stories now with back dates so they are archived in order.

Today we continued our tour of Italian monasteries with the Abbazia delle Tre Fontane. The place is very beautiful and religiously important. This is the sight where the Romans martyred by beheading the apostle St. Paul on June 29, 67 AD.

You enter the monestary from the Arco di Carlo Magno (Arch of Charlemagne). Much of the original art work has faded because it dates to the 8th century.

Once inside there is an open courtyard with the main abbey (left) and the church of Santa Maria Scala Coeli (right). The Abbey is the largest structure. The church inside is not as fancy as the other two, this is where the nuns and monks perform their daily activities. It was build to the specifications of all San Benedetto monasteries, so the sun comes into the part of the building relevant for the activities prudent for that time of day.

Santa Maria Scala Coeli literally means ladder to the heavens in Latin and is the smallest of the three in the Monastery. It received this name because on this spot in 1138 San Bernardo, while celebrating a mass for the dead in the presence of Pope Innocent II, had a vision in ecstasy of angels leading souls from purgatory to heaven. The church itself is beautiful.

The church dedicated to St. Paul is down a small path. It is not incredibility big, but it is very ornate. You enter from the side and immediately notice the sound of running water. On your left is an altar for St. Peter, on the right an alter for St. Paul. Each has beautiful artwork. Straight ahead are three niches of black marble for the three fountains. They are at different heights but they fit seamlessly into the church architecture. Behind the middle fountain is another altar, but it was closed. In the center floor is a mosaic representing the four seasons taken from Ostea Antica (ruins close to Rome that are similar to Pompeii). Above the entrance door is a plaque dating to the martyrdom stating that this is the place there the apostle died. Like many Italian structures, this building was build on the ruins of another, that was another. The current structure dates from 1599. Every piece in this church has history and significance, they have it all on their website [http://www.abbaziatrefontane.it].

Like Sacro Speco, these monks are Benedictine order, who follow the teachings of San Benedetto. Specifically they are the sub-order of trappisti. There are many orders but the other popular one in Italy is Franciscan, who follow the teachings of San Francisco.

The moto of San Benedetto is “prega e lavora” or “pray and work”. They hand produce and sell many goods for the income of the monastery, including honey, jam, beer, liqueur, chocolate, as well and clothing, gold, wood goods, all sorts of stuff. This particular monastery is famous for their chocolate and having just tried some, I wish I had bought more! They are also known for goods with eucalyptus, and in fact the grounds of the monastery were covered in eucalyptus trees, as well as olive trees, and other herbs. I saw a bay leaf plant that had grown into a tree! Like Sacro Speco they sell a variety of honeys, but a few more options here. I picked up some eucalyptus honey and some pollen to add to the walnut honey we got before (so much delicious honey!). I’m excited about the pollen, it’s a jar of little grains of yellow pollen. You are supposed to eat a spoon of it in the morning for added energy.

I mentioned they make booze. Here they make all sorts liqueurs from herbs, eucalyptus, chocolate, and citrus. Their brothers in Germany make beer and have gotten pretty famous for it. I was looking at a shelf of some of these crafted brews when I saw one I recognized as a particularly delicious beer available in many US bars, probably just mixed in, right? Nope Chimay is made by Trapisti monks. I picked up a color label I’ve never tasted – hope it’s even better than the red!

Full album from this day trip:
https://plus.google.com/photos/111221349198606775660/albums/5868250225318597217

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Carnevale in Rome

This write-up and photos are from almost a year ago, Carnevale 2012, but they never made it up. I’m trying to upload old pictures and the accompanying stories now with back dates so they are archived in order.

Today (Saturday) we went to Carnevale in Rome. The celebration is ongoing starting after Epiphany and going up to the day before Ash Wednesday (Fat Tuesday). Today is a parade with horses and a horse show later at night. Other celebrations included Fat Thursday, also tomorrow will be another parade without horses, and more celebrations Fat Tuesday.

In many cities the celebrations are for the poor people, in Rome the celebrations historically were focused on the ruling class. The style of the parade and performers reflects this history. Tomorrow we’re going to a traditional farmer-style Carnevale in a small town, so I’ll see the difference better.

Including horses is traditional for the Roman Carnevale. Via del Corso, the main street in Rome that cuts across the city was built to have races for Carnevale. The Roman Carnevale of the renaissance period was the biggest in all of Italy. It centered around the horse races held every evening for the eight days of celebrations. In 1874, a boy crossed in front of the horses and was killed in front of the royal family. They canceled the races going forward and it was like Carnevale itself was canceled.

For the parade today on Via del Corso they started with street performers. They came down and stopped and put on a show before moving down the street. Then the horses. There were an incredible amount. The theme was “Travel and Discovery”, there were many riders and carriages holding people in medieval garb, as they would have arriving to Rome many years ago.

After the parade Daniele and I took a short walk, had a snack. We came back in time to get a good place for the horse show that night. They had set up half of Piazza del Popolo as a sand bottom pen for the performances.

The show was a series a world famous horse performers. They had a few trainers. One was incredible! There were also trick riders. One guy had a pony and some type of horse that was the size of a dog. It was so cute!

After the show Daniele brought me to the restaurant that he wanted to bring me for Valentine’s Day, but it was overbooked. It was founded by two vegetarian sisters in 1987, so most of the menu is vegetarian. The food was exceptionally good, even by Italian restaurant standards. The menu included lots of different interesting items that I’m not used to seeing. We shared a Crostini di polenta al pesto di noci (baked polenta square with walnut pesto) for an antiposto. Then for first course I had a Lasagne mandorle e olive (olive and almond lasagna) and Daniele had Tortelli alla Mantovana (special pasta from Mantova with a sweet filling of squash and dried fruit in a butter sage sauce). For the second course I had Polpette di ricotta e Fichi (“meatballs” of ricotta and fig) and Daniele had Crocchette di cannellino alle erbe aromatiche (“meatballs” of beans and mushrooms). Everything was just so amazing. You know those rare meals when the food is so well prepared that you get that super satisfied feeling and you keep waiting for the over eating feeling, but it never comes? It was one of those. Though I did still feel full the next morning. I don’t normally get three courses– but how could I resist! The place itself was adorable as well. The door outside is locked, you have to rind the bell. They fill up every night with reservations. So you are not being disturbed with people coming in and out while eating. They create an atmosphere like they are sharing a meal with you at there home. In fact the small room with only a few tables is decorated like we could be in someone’s home. It’s my new favorite restaurant!

Le Bistrot in Garbatella
http://www.ristorantelebistrot.com/UK/HomePage_UK.html

Photos from Carnevale
https://plus.google.com/photos/111221349198606775660/albums/5834097767310554817

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Snow in Rome

This is an older post that got forgotten– because it’s not all that interesting. I’m putting it up now with a back-dated post-time. Since this blog is, primarily, my own travel diary.

Sometimes people are surprised to hear that it can snow in Rome. It can and most winters it does. In my experience it seems typical to get two to three snow storms a year. We do not get that storm on top of storm weather that you get in the North-East United States, where the old storm has not had a chance to melt before the next one is piling on top of it.

In the North and East of Italy, they can get, and have gotten, crazy amounts of snow– like 5 feet or even more. This shouldn’t be too much of a surprise when you think the Alps and Alpenini are over there. Here in Rome, we are very close to the sea, which probably protects us from getting too much. But we all know that how serious a snow emergency is has nothing to do with how much snow, and everything to do with how much snow there is compared to what a place is used to receiving.

The first storm we had, the mayor closed schools for two days just on the weather report. It snowed all night and the next day. However, it didn’t actually start sticking for hours. In the end I think we had about 5-inches. Now in general, the Italian people will stay inside if the weather is less than perfect, but obviously some people were out and about. Daniele, for example, is an ER nurse and had to go to work. So many people fell in the ice or got in car or motorbike accidents that it was an emergency at the hospital and he worked 24-hours straight. He fell in the ice too, and is now home for 20-days with a broken rib.

The second storm was even less, but again they closed the schools and even government offices this time. Also the mayor put out an ordinance that you can’t enter the city by car without snow chains in your car, which we don’t have. So we were basically trapped at home since we weren’t sure if the buses/trains were running normally. This was a day *after* the snow had finished. Then he extended the ordinance *another* day. I was rather annoyed, cause I had shit to do. But I guess he had to because Rome basically has no plows so streets still weren’t cleared. Private property, like apartment buildings or grocery stores never got plowed out. At all. Ours melted, but Daniele’s parent’s building is taller, so there is more shade, their lot still had snow in it yesterday.

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Palazzo Doria Pamphilj

A little while back I noticed a museum on Via del Corso, here in Rome, that I had never visited. It is the historical home of the Doria-Pamphilj family, one of the great noble families of Italy. Peeking inside from the entrance, you can see a beautiful garden courtyard. While I was curious about the art collections inside, I mostly just wanted to wander inside this beautiful huge palace. It basically takes up an entire block right in the heart of the historical district.

I knew from Daniele that the palace was still owned by the Doria Pamphilj family. They used part of the palace as their residence and the other as a museum.

Today I was free with nothing better to do than pay a prince 10 euros to see his house. My ticket included a lovely audio guide, which I took in English, recorded by the prince himself. Among many other things I was about to learn about this family, they all speak English so well and have strong historical ties with England because of several English marriages. Familiarity with the noble families seems to be common knowledge among Italians. I assume this is because they are intertwined with their history. I, however, know nothing about any of them and being an American, find it all a bit romantic.

During my visit I learned about the rise of the Pomphilj family with the first member of importance, Giovanni Battista Pamphili, who reigned as Pope Innocent X from 1644–1655. During that time he was strongly influenced by his sister-in-law, Olimpia Maidalchini, who acted as adviser until she became too powerful and was eventually banished. While she was in favor with the Pope, she convinced him it was unethical for the church to tax brothels and had him sell this right to her, expanding the family fortune significantly. Her son, Innocent X’s nephew Camillo Pamphili was offered the highly regarded post of Cardinal-nephew, or “nipote”. At the time it was customary for Popes to give a Cardinal position to a relative. This is where the English word “nepotism” comes. Innocent X appointed four of his and Olimpia’s relatives.

Camillo Pamphili turned down the cardinal position to get married. Initially, this upset his uncle and he was banished, but he was soon forgiven and was made a prince. Upon returning to Rome, Camillo built and decorated the Palazzo I visited today.

The Pamphilj family would then join with the Doria line. The Pamphilj family had been in Rome since the late 1400s. Before then they were originally from Gubbio, Umbria. The Doria family is from Genova (English: Genoa), where they have another palace set up like this one. Most of the palace furnishings are in a Roman style or an obvious Roman interpretation of another style. There are also some velvet wall coverings which are traditional in Genova. Then may have come from the palace there. At the time, velvet wall coverings were considered precious enough that they did not need to be covered with art; the Pamphilj family covered them with paintings anyway.

The rooms in the palace are set up like most royal residencies, a series of rooms that led into each other where guests would be kept waiting for entrance into the next. I found it interesting that while as in the French style the rooms each get bigger and grander as you get farther in, here the first room is the grandest. Along the side were smaller rooms that were private apartments used as living space or for intimate entertaining. The last two rooms had been converted into a ballroom for a party. If I remember from the audio guide, the occasion was my prince guide’s grandmother’s Debutante Ball. There was also a throne room to the side. When this palace was made the official residency of the family, the Pope could come here. Remember at the time, the Pope was King of Rome. The purpose was to quickly bring him to this room where he would receive visitors, never the other way around. All of these rooms have their original furnishings and wall hangings. They are quite stunning.

At the end of these rooms is the Gallery, a square of hallway above the beautiful courtyard where I started. This is a beautiful space with every corner filled with paintings, that is except the decorative moldings and Hall of Mirrors where there are sculptures, or course. I haven’t been able to find out more about this, but apparently when Innocent X started the collection he bought the pieces in such a way that his descendants could not sell them off. I don’t know how one could do that, but it kept the collection intact while other similar collections of noble families have been dispersed.

There are a few other rooms beyond the gallery. One large room that has a plain ceiling that had to be quickly put up when the original collapsed. Another smaller room that holds some of the art work that was added later to the collection. Some of the oldest art in the collection was added most recently. My princely guide points out the crude, pre-renaissance techniques and how he could not imagine his earlier ancestors being attracted to this style. There is also a smaller set of rooms used for alternating exhibitions.

On my way out, I go downstairs and linger in an area between the courtyard and the staircase. I can’t guess what this area was originally meant to be but now it is used as a garage that could easily fit 10 cars. This is a 10 car private garage about a 3 minute walk from each the Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, and Piazza Venezia. I think if Daniele was with me, this would be his favorite part! I go to peek through a door window to see what is around me, and see another whole giant courtyard like where I came in. I could see the palace was huge from the street, but it just doesn’t scale looking at it from outside. They must keep an entire half of the palace for their private home, so everything I just saw was only half the palace. It is clear this other side is a home. This royal looking courtyard has a child play slide and across from me upstairs is a man working on a computer. I only creepily spied on them for a second, but I did just pay a prince 10 euros, I think I can indulge my curiosity a little.

I looked up a little about the family today. My (audio-) guide, Jonathan Pamphilj, said he lived much of his life in England. That makes sense since his parents were Princess Orietta Doria-Pamphilj and Royal Navy Commander Frank George Wignall Pogson. Princess Orietta was the last direct descendant of the Doria Pamphilj line and died in 2000. She and her husband adopted Gesine Margaret Orietta Mary Pogson Doria Pamphilj, known as Gesine Doria, born 1964 and Jonathan Doria Pamphilj, born 1963. They were raised as siblings but are not blood related. Today Gesine Doria is married to Massimiliano Floridi with four children. Jonathan Doria Pamphilj has formed a civil partnership with Brazilian, Elson Edeno Braga, and has two children by surrogacy. His sister has challenged his children’s right to inherit after his death under an Italian law that prevents sperm downers from claiming parentage to a child.

Story:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/8305238.stm

I was not allowed to take pictures inside, but they have many on their website:
http://www.dopart.it/roma/

Additional Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pamphilj
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doria-Pamphili-Landi

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Corrine’s Visit

My cousin Corrine, her daughter Celina, husband Anthony, and Anthony’s father recently made a trip to Italy. They spent most of the time with Anthony’s family and attending a wedding but we did get to spend one day together in Rome. They arrived late the night before and had an early flight the next day, so it really was just one day. Also it was at the end of their trip, so they were a bit tired. I met up with them to walk around a few of Rome’s sites. Once he finished work, Daniele joined us too, and we all had a good time. It was the first time Daniele got to meet them, so it was extra nice. I was hoping to bring them to one of the great restaurants around here, but they wanted to be back at there hotel near the airport by 9 PM and were sick of walking. Since Italians don’t eat dinner before 8PM (“only the waiters eat at this hour”) we just ate at the first touristy place we saw right by the Trevi Fountain; while they told us how much cheaper/better things are by Anthony’s family. What’s that? Things are cheaper in the countryside than they are in the city? Food isn’t that good at touristy restaurants? You don’t say, I had no idea!

I wasn’t caring a camera, giving it a rest after all the shooting Fabs and I had just done. So I didn’t get a picture of the group of us. I think one of them did, but I’ll probable never see it, like that wedding photo of Corrine and I have been asking about since May…

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Fabienne’s Visit to Rome

My friend from high school, Fabienne made a special trip to Rome to visit me. We had lots of adventures in the center and area around Rome. We also took a trip to Florence and Venice.

Originally I had misread her flight itinerary and thought she was coming in the day before. That day Daniele was off work so I figured we would have a fun beach day and break into the touristy thing gently, shake the jet lag, also Rome’s airport is like a five-minute drive from the beach. But the actual day she came in he worked, so I couldn’t pick her up by car. It’s easy to take the train to the center. So I sent updated instructions once I realized. She saw the email, but did not open it. It was a pretty stressful morning for both of us waiting and not knowing where the other was. We found each other eventually.

At that point Daniele was actually done with his morning shift. So we stashed her luggage in his car and were able to drive to some of the parts of the city less famous than the Colosseum. We went to Gianicolo Hill, one of the original hills of Rome. More of a residential area now, but the top is a park with fountains and great views. We also hit up Aventino hill which also has a great view from its gorgeous orange garden. I think that night we had diner at home, but I can’t put the pieces together perfectly now.

The next day Fab’s and I had a jam-packed sight seeing day in the center. After we all had breakfast together at home, Daniele dropped us off near the Vatican before heading to work. First I had us pick up some slices of pizza and mini-pizzas from my favorite baker/pizzeria. For about 3-euros a piece we each had a bag of yummy goodies. We checked out the Vatican after that. Checked out the square and then got in line for St. Peter’s Cathedral; it was the perfect amount of time to eat our lunch. We stayed a really long time in the cathedral. It’s just so beautiful. Took most of our day and it was too late to go to the Vatican Museums after. Fabs was also on the border about doing that anyway. From here we grabbed a snack at Mondo Arrancini and brought it to Castel Sant’ Angelo to sit by the water and eat them. We took some pictures of the castle and bridge of angels before crossing over the river to the other side of the city. We walked along the river, stopping briefly at the Ara Pacis, on our way to Piazza del Popolo. From Piazza del Popolo, you can follow Via del Corso through the historical center and hit most the sights. Unfortunately it was late in the day. We quickly stopped by the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain when Daniele called saying he was waiting for us at Piazza del Popolo. I made Fabienne through 3 quick coins over her shoulder and we hurried back. That night we walked around the San Lorenzo area and had dinner at my favorite pizzaria, Marotoneta.

UPDATE:
Fabs has a italian-speaking opera-siniging bf now. They met in the US, but I have to give some credit to those Trevi Fountain coins.

There is more after all these pictures…


(Inside the Vatican)


(The Bridge of Angels in front of Castle Sant’Angelo)


(The fountain Barcaccia in Piazza di Spagna)


(Fabienne tossing her coins in the Trevi Fountain)

The next day we went to Lake Bracciano. We visited two towns on the lake: Bracciano and Anguillara, both medieval hill towns. First we went to Bracciano. It is set farther back from the lake and has a castle. In between we went to a restaurant that serves fish from the lake where Daniele’s family always goes when they are here. I’ve mentioned Italians prefer going to the same restaurants over trying new ones. After we walked through Angulara, which is small and still elevated but set closer to the lake. We took a path down to the lake and walked along the path there. There are houses along the cliff edge between the old center and lake; many were covered in flowers. Farther down the river road there were sun bathers on the narrow lake beach. Some of the swimmers harassed the swans that were there.


(Castle of Bracciano)

(Lake Bracciano and surrounding area)

The next day we spent in the center doing the sights we still hadn’t seen. We started with the Roman Forum which was awesome. It was actually my first time going inside, too. Then we hit up the Colosseum. From there we went to Piazza Venezia, then the Pantheon. There we got some of the original frozen espresso at Tazza D’Oro– delicious! After we passed by the statue of Pasquino. This statue was unearthed in the 15th century and in the 16th century became the first talking statue. People would attach poems written in the Roman dialect to the statue criticizing the Pope or denouncing injustice. The tradition continues today. Then we went to Piazza Navona where we took lots of pictures and bought some small original paintings. Then wondered to Campo dei Fiori and eventually Tibertina Island, where we met up with my friend Ben who is on a trip around the world now that he finished school before he enters the working world and just happens to be in Rome now, as well as Daniele who’s birthday it was! Daniele picked my favorite place for dinner: Momo. When we got there we found that they had little baby bunnies in the front lawn area, for no reason just hopping around being cute.


(Roman Forum)


(The Roman Forum. I’m waving in this picture. Can you see me?)


(Piazza Venezia with Altare della Patria)


(Street artists in Piazza Navona )

The following day was our beach day. I took Fabs to Ostia because I think it is a great experience and has a great culture. Ostia is “Rome’s Beach”. There are several beaches near by, but this one is actually considered a suburb of Rome and the trains come here from the center. It’s the most crowded, but that’s some great people watching. Every woman in Italy wears a bikini. Size or age has no restrictions. The modesty bar is wayyyy over from were you are used to it being. Tops are optional all over the Mediterranean, you don’t need to be at a special nude beach. Tops are optional for young girls any age young enough were she is not developed, so 10 year olds with out tops sometimes. Butt coverage? I don’t really want to get into it, but there is not much there to describe. Men are not exempt. Sure smaller bathing suits are much more common; we all already know about that. Those who do where the style of swim trunks common in the US hike up the legs to make sure their thighs tan. Then there are the vendors. Vendors are so much more common all over Italy, but at the beach you really notice them. You are a captive audience. They just walk around offering their goods, from clothing to inflatables to coconut, normally kicking some sand on you or your towel as they pass. I hate the vendors. Anyway, Ostia is Italy at it’s most guido. We took lots of pictures of cute boys, because that seemed funny to us at the time. Fab’s and I had a lot of fun this day.


(Vendor at Ostia Beach selling hats and other things)


(In case you didn’t believe me about those shorts…)

The next three days we spent in Florence and Venice. I’ll write about them separately.

After that it was basically time to say goodbye.

All the pictures I took of Rome during Fab’s visit are in my “Fabienne’s Visit -Rome” album
https://picasaweb.google.com/111221349198606775660/20110704FabienneSVisitRoma#

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Arrivaderci Roma

I am heading back to New Jersey after 2+ months in Rome. It’s just for a short visit (I hope) and then I’ll be back here. It will be nice to see everyone back home, but I’ll miss it here. I wanted to go through a few of the things that I did but never made it into blog posts but I want to remember.

Typically I upload a blog post together with a photo album. So it’s not a coincidence that these are all things that went into my “Rome and Monterotondo” album. I’ll just walk through the whole album.

2/27/2011 We went to Villa Ada. This is another park in Rome. The palace is now used as the Egyptian embassy. This was our first first little outing.

3/3/2011 Daniele makes me some sacchettini or “little sacs” along with the rest of a complete Italian dinner, featuring homemade fresh sauce. I picked them out at the store. They are so cute!

3/6/2011 Carnevale in Monterotundo. This one does have a post.
http://blog.kait.us/test/?p=88

3/26/2011 Parco della Cervelletta. This park is near Daniele’s parents’ house. It has a castle.

3/29/2011 Walking around the center taking pictures, mostly of Tiberina Island.

4/3/2011 We planted our tomatoes. There are more random pictures of them in this album as they grow.
UPDATE: As well as in the Rome album from when I came back for the summer.

4/4/2011 Walk along Via Venito, one of Rome’s more hip streets and the setting for La Dolce Vita (recommended iconic Italian film). Followed by a walk through Villa Borghese.

4/14/2011 Daniele brought me to the important churches in Rome that I still had not seen: San Giovanni Cathedral and Santa Croce in Gerusalemme.

4/17/2011 An Amici di Roma Event. This also has it’s own post:
http://blog.kait.us/test/?p=79

4/20/2011 Walk in park and in Spaninsh Steps. Spanish Steps were decorated with flowers for Rome’s anniversary, April 21st.

4/21/2011 There are lots of whores at night on Via Salaria (the road that takes us home). I have tried lots of times to get pictures, but it is really hard in the dark with us moving in the car. Luckily there are so many. I get lots of tries.

4/24/2011 I spent Easter with Daniele’s family. We went to the beach town of Torvajanica and met some other friends. Then ate the biggest meal ever, of all time. Fun Italian Easter facts: There is no Easter Bunny, but they understand if you compare to La Befana, a witch who gives candy on the eve of the Epiphany – January 5th. They don’t have chocolate bunnies, they have chocolate eggs. The traditional treat is a giant chocolate egg with a prize inside (illegal in US). Story: http://news.nationalpost.com/2011/01/11/surprise-woman-has-illegal-chocolate-egg-confiscated-at-u-s-border/

4/27/2011 Another walk through the center. We hit up the Colosseum, Rose Gardens and a few other spots.

Ahh, Rome, so many good times. Arrivederci (Literally, “until we see each other again”)